The team behind Yarraville’s Navi has a new sibling, and this one comes with a 700 kilogram Brazilian grill.
Bar Gabi brings together chef Julian Hills, Georgia Roberts, group beverage manager Miriam Wahlhütter and chef Paul Turner for charcoal cooking and cocktails at 21 Anderson Street. Named after Gabija, the Baltic spirit of fire and protector of hearth and home, and Wahlhütter’s grandmother Gabi, it’s a fitting introduction to what’s cooking.
Turner leads the kitchen, with a grill equipped with 32 rotisserie spits doing much of the heavy lifting. Start with charcoal grilled potato damper and whipped wattleseed miso emulsion, or smoky pickled mussels on a housemade potato cake. Ox tongue with blackened finger lime glaze and saltbush mustard sauce gives the fire another chance to show off.
Smoke finds its way into the glass, too. There’s a clarified Bloody Mary finished with smoked celery salt, a paperbark smoked take on the tequila sunrise and a house martini made with gin produced exclusively for Bar Gabi by Rothwell Distillery. Housemade basil liqueur and mandarin limoncello sit alongside local producers Beechworth Bitters and Punch & Ladle.
Across two levels, the room takes its cues from the 1970s, with cosy banquettes, spiced chocolate tones and stained glass accents. Designed by Hills’ brother Damon of Finnis Architects, it’s finished with ceramic interiors and custom Robert Gordon crockery.
Navi’s attention to detail carries across, with a more casual invitation: settle into a banquette, order something off the grill and see where the evening goes.
Bar Gabi
21 Anderson Street, Yarraville
Wednesday and Thursday from 5pm
Friday to Sunday from noon
Bookings and further information